How to Prune Tomato Plants Like a Professional ? - Net - Indir

How to Prune Tomato Plants Like a Professional ?

You have the ability to develop your own path. We’ll be playing in the vegetable garden throughout spring and summer; join us for step-by-step tutorials, highly suggested equipment, backyard tours, juicy-ripe recipes, and more. Let’s get our hands filthy, shall we?

Pruning your tomato plants is one of the three most critical duties for a successful gardening season, according to one of the first things I learnt when I began producing veggies (the other two being watering and fertilizing). Tomatoes grow so swiftly and furiously that if you don’t prune them, they may become quite overpowering.

Always verify whether a tomato variety is determinate or indeterminate before purchasing seedlings or seeds. Celebrity and Glacier kinds, for example, are small, compact, or dwarf cultivars (for container cultivation) that only grow to a particular size and produce all of their fruit at once. It is not essential to prune them. The bulk of tomatoes, including Beefsteak, Brandywine, and most heritage types, are indeterminate cultivars that not only need but also benefit from frequent pruning.

Why Should You Prune Tomato Plants?

Pruning indeterminate tomatoes is necessary for a variety of reasons. If you let the plant to grow uncontrollably, it will devote all of its energy to developing foliage rather than fruit (and if you do get fruit, it will be much smaller). You’ll end up with a jungle, with little light and air movement, and you’ll be fostering the development of plant diseases. The moist foliage of tomatoes is very vulnerable to fungus (which is why you should water tomato plants from the base rather than the top), and the thicker and denser the foliage, the longer it will take to dry out.

In addition, an unpruned tomato plant is quite hard to sustain and bind to its stake, and it will eventually fall. At planting time, use a sturdy stake, such as a steel fence post or a 1-inch by 1-inch hardwood stake with a five-foot installed height. You may either use a prepared trellis or construct a cage trellis as long as it is big enough to handle a mature tomato plant and the plant is pruned regularly.

What You’ll Need for Tomato Pruning

While you may pinch off minor side shoots with your fingers, bigger shoots should be cut with sharp shears or scissors to avoid ripping off part of the main stem. Keep in mind that even minor injuries might provide an access site for plant disease and insects.

Itching, burning, and redness are common allergic responses to tomato leaves and stems. If you’re sensitive, avoid touching the plant with your hands entirely. I get such a rash from tomato leaves that I use gloves and long sleeves while caring to the plants, in addition to pruners.

To avoid spreading illnesses from one plant to another, disinfect your instruments with a 10 percent bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water). I do this more in the middle of the summer when severe tomato diseases like blight are prevalent, but if you want to be cautious, have a bottle of bleach solution and a clean towel on hand to cleanse the blade as required.

Finally, have thick cotton thread on hand to bind branches to your supporting poles or trellis while you’re trimming.

Pruning in the Early Season: Get Those Suckers

After you’ve planted your tomatoes, you’ll see side shoots sprouting at an angle between the main stem and a branch (in the shape of a ‘v’). These are known as suckers, and they’re the ones you’re looking for. You should remove them while they are still little, so keep a watchful eye out for them and remove them regardless of their size. Small ones may be pinched off with your (gloved) thumb and index finger, but bigger ones over two inches in length should be pruned.

The sooner and more often the suckers are pruned away, the better. It may stress the plant if you wait until the suckers have developed into enormous side branches and then remove a lot of leaves all at once. Furthermore, the incisions will be significantly larger, exposing more surfaces to disease and insect assault.

Branches that are touching the ground should either be tied to raise them (since soil contact may spread germs, fungus, and viruses to the plant) or trimmed. Remove any leaves that are touching the ground as well. Continue to prune the plant in this manner every few days, at least twice a week.

Pruning in the Late Season: Increase Light and Air Circulation

Even if you have dutifully cared to your tomato plants throughout the summer, they will seem unruly at some time since it is impossible to capture all the suckers as the plant grows. That’s OK, but there’s still some trimming you can do to help the remaining tomatoes on the vine mature more quickly.

Late-season pruning of tomato plants should be more vigorous than early-season trimming, with the goal of improving air flow and allowing more sunshine in. Any branch with no tomatoes or flowers on it, or even just a couple, is fair game. If it’s late in the season, you may also prune any flowering branches that aren’t expected to grow into full fruit by the time your region has its first autumn frost, which is the unofficial end of tomato season.

Sanitizing your pruning tool is critical when trimming late in the season since the risk of illness is significantly greater. To avoid disease transmission, it’s also critical to remove any clipped plant pieces from your yard and dispose of them in the trash rather than compost.

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